Rioja Reserva is one of the last great bargains in the wine world: a wine the producer has already aged for you, in barrel and then in bottle, and only released when they think it’s ready. Ramirez de la Piscina has been doing this from San Vicente de la Sonsierra for generations – the family has farmed here since the 13th century – and their Reserva is Tempranillo from the Rioja Alta, given considerably more time in wood and cellar than the Crianza. The extra years show up as texture and savor rather than extra weight: dried cherry, leather, tobacco, and that dusty, gentle sweetness of well-integrated oak. Open it tonight, or forget it for another five years. Either way it delivers.