Nebbiolo grown on cliffs. Valtellina is the alpine valley in Lombardy where the grape is called Chiavennasca and the vineyards are stacked on stone terraces so steep that everything is done by hand, sometimes by cable. Plozza has been working these slopes since the 1920s, and the Rosso di Valtellina is the house’s everyday bottle the one you open on a Tuesday rather than save for a decade. Mountain air keeps it lifted and lean where Barolo goes broad and brooding, and 2019 has settled into a lovely, sappy stride. This is Nebbiolo without the ceremony.