Pio Cesare has been a fixture of Alba since 1881 one of the founding traditional houses of the Langhe, now in its fifth generation. The Barolos and Barberescos get the headlines, but Dolcetto is the grape Piedmontese growers drink themselves: a juicy, savory, distinctly local red built for the table. This one shows exactly what it should fresh dark fruit, a brisk savory edge, soft tannins, the easy weight that makes a bottle disappear over dinner. The classic Piedmontese aperitivo-and-pasta red, from a house that knows the region as well as anyone.