Pierre Morey is famous for whites, which makes this 1er Cru Monthelie a delightful curiosity – the same biodynamic farming and obsessive cellar work, applied to a small parcel of Pinot Noir in the village tucked just south of Volnay and Auxey-Duresses. Pierre’s two decades (1988-2008) at the helm of Domaine Leflaive shaped his hands-off philosophy; daughter Anne is now fully in charge and the cuvees differ mostly by new oak percentage. Monthelie tends to live in Volnay’s shadow, but on a 1er Cru site, in this family’s hands, it delivers a perfumed, finely drawn red that punches well above the appellation’s profile.