Pierre Morey is celebrated as one of the great white winemakers of Burgundy, but the domaine farms a small parcel of Pinot Noir too, and the same precision applies. From his two decades (1988-2008) at the helm of Domaine Leflaive, where he steered both that estate and his own to biodynamics well ahead of the curve, Pierre passed the reins to his daughter Anne, who is now fully in charge. Across the lineup, the wines differ mostly by percentage of new oak; here, on a regional Cote d’Or red, restraint and energy do the talking. A lithe, transparent introduction to the family style in a Pinot Noir frame.