Andy and Nick Peay farm one of the most remote, weather-beaten estates on the far Sonoma Coast close enough to the Pacific that ripening is a battle every year, and the vineyards are flanked by towering old-growth redwoods. Those trees are the inspiration for Les Titans, the brothers’ high-elevation estate Syrah and one of California’s great expressions of the grape. It’s cool-climate Syrah at its most uncompromising: dark fruit, a meaty crack of black pepper and bacon fat, and a tight, structured frame that recalls a serious Northern Rhne more than anything Californian. Built to age, rewarding to follow.