Old-vine Cabernet from San Benito County not a sentence you read often, and that’s exactly the point of Paysan. Ian Brand is one of the Central Coast’s most curious winemakers, and this bottling pulls fruit from older Cabernet plantings in a region better known for everyday wine than serious red. In his hands, it becomes something else: medium-bodied, savory, herbal-edged, with cassis and dried sage and a real sense of place. The opposite of glossy Napa Cab more rustic, more honest, and a whole lot more interesting per dollar.