Priorat has a reputation for wines you buy now and open when your kids graduate. Ceps Nous is the exception, and it’s honest about it the name means “new vines” in Catalan, a reference to the parcels the Pasanau family planted in 2000. The fruit comes from La Morera de Montsant, the highest village in Priorat, where vineyards sit at 2,300 feet against the rock wall of the Serra de Montsant and swing hard between hot days and cold nights. That altitude is the whole trick: it keeps the acid alive in a region that can bake it out. All Grenache, fermented in steel and given just seven months in French barrels, so the oak stays out of the way. It’s a full-throated Priorat that you can actually pull the cork on tonight.