Paolo Bea is an Umbrian superstar and one of the founding fathers of Italy’s natural wine movement, an uncompromisingly old-school estate where Giampiero Bea now gives voice to his father’s instincts: healthy farming, indigenous yeasts, long macerations, and years of patient aging. The wines are boisterous, wild, and unmistakably alive. Pagliaro is the estate’s most renowned bottling, pure Sagrantino from a prized hilltop site in Montefalco, fermented on its skins for 40 to 50 days and aged for years in steel, big Slavonian oak, and bottle. Sagrantino is one of the world’s most tannic grapes, so this is a powerhouse built for the long haul. This is the 2020.