Dave Phinney built his name on unapologetically big wines, Orin Swift and The Prisoner among them, so a taut, cool-climate Pinot Noir from Sta. Rita Hills is not the plot twist anyone saw coming. Our Lady of Guadalupe is the vineyard he planted himself beginning in 2018, and the only American vineyard he actually owns; the first wines arrived with the 2021 vintage. It shows. This is Pinot built on the acidity that makes the region famous, with dark cherry and wild strawberry pulled taut by a coastal salinity and the sage and lavender growing on the hills around the vines. Tannins stay mild, the finish runs long and energetic, and there is enough structure here to reward a few years in the cellar. Turns out the man knows how to grow grapes, too.