Once & Future is Joel Peterson’s return to first principles: the man who built Ravenswood into the iconic Sonoma Zinfandel house, working again in small lots from older sites. The Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel is the gateway, a blend that gives you the Peterson approach (native yeast, small open-top fermenters, hand punch-downs, French oak) at the most accessible point in the lineup. It drinks with the energy and savory backbone you’d expect from one of California’s most opinionated Zinfandel minds. No wimpy wines, still.