The vines here went into the ground in 1905 and are still dry-farmed, still head-trained, still a field blend – R.W. Moore in Coombsville is about as close as Napa gets to a living monument that also happens to make seriously good wine. Mike Hendry farms it personally (his wife Molly’s uncle owns the place), which is roughly as close to the source as vineyard sourcing gets. It’s mostly Zinfandel, with odds and ends of Petite Sirah, Carignane and Mourvedre planted among the rows the old way, picked together and fermented together. That co-planting is a big part of why this doesn’t taste like the jammy, high-octane Zinfandel cliche: there’s spice, savor and structure alongside the dark fruit. Old vines, done properly.