Julien Brocard was the first person in Chablis to farm biodynamically, and he started right here, converting the Boissonneuse vineyard in 1997 when the rest of the region thought he’d lost the plot. The site is a single hillside holding beside the village of Prehy, planted on Kimmeridgian limestone so packed with fossil shells that the connection between ancient seabed and salty white wine stops being a metaphor. The wine ferments and ages in large foudres rather than small barrels, which means no oak makeup, just texture. What you get is Chablis with the volume of a good vintage and none of the padding. It’s the bottle that reminds you why the region matters.