Romain Guiberteau, the Loire Chenin star trained at the legendary Clos Rougeard, has spent two decades proving that Saumur belongs in the world-Chenin conversation. Clos de Guichaux is his monopole: a 1.6-hectare walled vineyard in the Bizay terroir, planted in 2003 on silty sand over chalky limestone. Farmed organically, fermented with ambient yeast in used barrels with malolactic blocked, it shows the youngest face of his lineup, all energy and crunch. The 2023 is concentrated yet bone-dry, with that palate-coating Guiberteau texture in miniature. A killer introduction to one of France’s most exciting white-wine addresses.