Pierre Ramonet arrived in Chassagne-Montrachet with essentially nothing, bought his first parcel of Ruchottes in 1934, and by 1978 the family owned a slice of Le Montrachet itself. Three generations on, Noel and Jean-Claude run a house whose whites are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. La Boudriotte is a premier cru at the southern end of the commune, out toward Morgeot, and Ramonet’s version is the house style in miniature: native-yeast fermentation, a measured hand with oak, long lees aging, and a wine that trades flash for structure. It is rich and taut at the same time, and it rewards patience this is not a bottle for the drive home. Give it a few years, then a big glass.