Here is the open secret: this Cotes-du-Rhone is really Vinsobres, the northernmost cru of the southern Rhone, just not labeled that way. Vinsobres is a windy hillside village where cool nights slow the ripening, so Grenache and Syrah arrive with more backbone and lift than the flatland fruit filling most CdR bottles. Valerie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud went organic in the late 1990s and converted to biodynamics in the early 2000s, earning Demeter certification in 2009. The 2020 is Grenache-led, with Syrah and Cinsault, aged in concrete so nothing gets between you and the fruit: red berries, resinous herbs, a stony spine, a supple finish. It has been our favorite everyday red in the shop, and it punches far above its humble label.