Greves means gravel, and the vineyard delivers on the name: a mid-slope Beaune premier cru whose stony soils give Pinot Noir a lift and polish that richer sites cannot fake. Chanson has been in Beaune since 1750, aging its wines inside a 15th-century bastion built into the town’s ramparts, and since Bollinger took over in 1999 the domaine has quietly become one of the Cote de Beaune’s most dependable addresses. The house style is infusion rather than extraction, with whole clusters and a gentle hand, which is why these wines come out perfumed and pure instead of chewy. The 2021 was a small, cool vintage and it shows in the best way, all red-fruited transparency and fine tannin, structured but never heavy. Give it a few years and it will pay you back.