The Diwald family converted their Wagram vineyards to organic farming in 1976, back when that made you the odd family in the village rather than a pioneer. Two generations later they are still there, on the deep loess hills around Grossriedenthal, and still making one of Austria’s most honest reds. Zweigelt is the country’s signature red grape, and here it stays light on its feet: juicy, peppery, faintly wild, with tannins that never get in the way. Chill it for twenty minutes and it becomes the most useful bottle in the fridge. This is the kind of red that disappears at the table without anyone quite noticing why.