Cote de Brouilly wraps the flanks of an extinct volcano, and its blue-tinted volcanic stone, the famous “terres bleues,” gives Gamay a depth and mineral bite you won’t find elsewhere in Beaujolais. For Cuvee Melanie, Daniel Bouland works a tiny, steep, south-facing parcel of 70-plus-year-old vines high on the hill, just above Chateau Thivin. This is his richer, rounder, more decadent bottling: deep and dark-fruited, but pulled taut by all that mineral energy. Hand-farmed organically, fermented with native yeasts, and bottled unfiltered, it’s old-school Beaujolais with the volume turned up.