The Dead Arm is d’Arenberg’s flagship Shiraz, named for a vine disease (eutypa lata) that withers half the vine and concentrates the fruit on what survives. This is McLaren Vale at full intensity, from a fourth-generation South Australian estate run by the gleefully eccentric Chester Osborn. The wine is made from ancient, low-yielding vines and basket-pressed in the old way for a powerful, deeply structured Shiraz. The 2019 is dense and built to age for a decade or more. Decant it well ahead and pair with something hearty.