Melascone is the old Biellese dialect word for Nebbiolo and locally it also doubled as shorthand for the everyday red. That’s exactly the spirit of this cuve from Colombera & Garella, one of Alto Piemonte’s standout producers. It’s a blend of roughly 65% Nebbiolo with Croatina and Vespolina, vinified spontaneously, aged mostly in cement with a small portion in used barriques. The wine drinks easily but never feels simple, channeling the savory, lightly sanguine character of Alto Piemonte’s volcanic soils into something fresh, juicy, and aromatic. Wild strawberry, rose, tobacco, and leather a wine made for the table.