Gideon Beinstock farms a singular estate in Oregon House, in Yuba County’s Sierra Foothills, and the wines he makes there are unlike any others in California. Stone Soup is his Syrah, sourced from a steep, rocky site at about 1,900 feet where the vines fight heat, lean soils, and drought. The result is a mountain Syrah that drinks like it came from a much cooler climate deeply pigmented, high-toned, and tightly wound. A small splash of Viognier rides along for lift and fragrance. This is a wine that quietly rewrites what California Syrah can be.