Pineau d’Aunis is the Loire’s secret handshake a peppery, light-bodied native grape that almost disappeared in the 20th century before producers like Thierry Puzelat dragged it back into the conversation. Clos du Tue-Boeuf, the Puzelat family estate in Les Montils, has been at the heart of the natural wine movement since the mid-90s, and this Pineau d’Aunis comes from old vines (some over a century) farmed by Valerie Forgues. Fermentation is native, aging happens in demi-muids, and sulfur is decided by feel each vintage. The result is a wine that drinks like a peppery, perfumed Loire cabernet franc crossed with a cool-climate gamay. Serve with a chill.