This is the everyday red from one of Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s great traditionalist houses, made from old vines averaging well over 50 years. Clos du Mont-Olivet traces back to the mid-1500s and is run today by the Sabon family, beacons of a fresher, more elegant style of southern Rhone. The Vieilles Vignes is Grenache-led, rounded out with Syrah, Mourvedre, and Carignan from sandy, quartz-rich parcels around Orange and on the right bank. The 2023 is pure, juicy, and fine-grained without the heaviness you might fear. It’s the kind of bottle that overdelivers for a weeknight.