A new-wave Cahors that has nothing to do with the dark, austere wines the appellation built its reputation on. Benot Aymard took over his grandfather’s vines in Lacapelle-Cabanac, west of the Cahors AOC, in 2014, and converted the 15-hectare estate to organic and biodynamic farming. His base Cahors comes from clay-iron-limestone terraces above the Lot and higher-elevation limestone plots, and it’s made for purity over power short maceration, gentle handling, and a focus on the juicy, perfumed side of Malbec. The 2020 has a few years on it now, so it drinks with real ease: ripe dark fruit, violets, a graphite undertow, and the kind of suppleness that makes you forget Cahors was ever supposed to be a wine you had to wait on.