Pinot Nero in Chianti Classico sounds like a joke until you taste this. Clivo Altura farms a tiny parcel of Pinot Noir planted in the early 2000s at 700 meters above sea level, deep inside a 2,000-hectare forest near Castello di Fosini, where it gets too cool for Sangiovese to ripen reliably. The fruit goes in with 50% whole clusters for a two-week maceration, then ages in tonneaux and small French oak. Only 1,050 bottles a year. It’s an idiosyncratic, perfumed, distinctly Italian Pinot, with the verticality of high-altitude fruit and the wild edge of a forest-grown vineyard. Bighellone means “loafer” or “layabout” a wink at the slow, late-ripening fruit.