Clase Azul Mezcal Durango trades the brand’s signature blue agave for wild cenizo, a variety endemic to the semi-arid highlands of Durango that needs more than a decade to mature. The payoff is an artisanal mezcal that reads herbal rather than heavy: cooked agave and tejocote fruit on the nose with wisps of smoke and fresh rosemary, then lemon peel and charred agave carrying a long, softly spiced finish. Each matte decanter is finished by hand with a cap of individually placed colored beads, so no two are alike, and the spirit inside is certified non-GMO and kosher. Sip it neat and unhurried this is a mezcal for conversation, not for cocktails.