Espiegle means mischievous in French, and that’s exactly the mood Christelle Betton is going for here. This is Northern Rhone Syrah in a bright, playful register, all juicy energy rather than brooding heft, made to open young and disappear fast. Betton is the third generation of her family working these Crozes-Hermitage slopes, and she even holds a tiny sliver of the great Hermitage hill. She farms organically without bothering to chase certification, preferring to read what the vineyard actually needs each year. If you think Syrah has to be serious, this one’s here to change your mind.