The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux was the warm, opulent counterpart to the more classical 2005 generous, fleshy, fruit-forward, with tannins that arrived ripe and round. Lagrange, the Saint-Julien Third Growth owned by Suntory since 1983, produced a wine of real depth and density here. Sixteen years on, it has shed its early extravagance and entered a sweet spot: still plush and fruit-driven, but with the secondary notes of mature Bordeaux starting to emerge. Drink now through the next decade.