A mature Saint-Estphe approaching its twentieth birthday, and showing the quiet authority that classed-growth Bordeaux earns with time. Calon-Sgur is the famous Third Growth on the northern edge of the Mdoc, the one whose label bears a heart the Marquis de Sgur famously said that while he made wine at Lafite and Latour, his heart belonged to Calon. The 2006 is one of the last bottlings in the old, Merlot-forward style, and it’s drinking beautifully right now: the structure has softened, the fruit has turned from blackberry into something more savory and sous-bois, and the long Saint-Estphe finish does the rest. A ready-to-drink classic.