A piece of mature Saint-milion at a moment when these wines really sing. Chteau Barde-Haut sits on the limestone plateau in the eastern part of the appellation; the 1998 was made before the property changed hands to the Garcin-Cathiard family in 2000, but the vineyard – heavy on Merlot – has always been the constant. At nearly three decades old, this is fully resolved Bordeaux: secondary aromas of cedar, leather, tobacco, and forest floor have taken the lead, with the fruit having shifted from primary to dried-cherry and plum. Tannins are soft, the wine is gentle, and the window is wide open. Drink soon, drink with food, and don’t expect a young wine – that’s the whole point.