Rossese is Liguria’s red, and there’s not much of it. Most of what escapes the region is Rossese di Dolceacqua, from up near the French border, but this is a different grape entirely: Rossese di Albenga, a distinct local variety grown further east, where Cascina Feipu dei Massaretti farms organically in the valley behind the coast. It’s a light red in the best sense: pale, perfumed, low in tannin, built for drinking rather than contemplating. Chill it down twenty minutes and it does everything a summer red should do. The Ligurians have been keeping this to themselves for a long time, largely by drinking it all before anyone else could get to it.