Paolo Cianferoni has run Caparsa since 1982, on the farm his father bought in 1965, and it shows in the wine: rugged, honest, entirely unbothered by fashion. Caparsa was one of Flatiron’s very first loves in Chianti and there’s never been a breakup. The estate sits in Radda, the highest and coolest corner of Chianti Classico, sometimes called the Chambolle-Musigny of the zone for the ethereal red-fruited Sangiovese it produces. Doccio a Matteo is the Riserva, and Paolo’s approach to it is unhurried in the extreme: certified organic farming, spontaneous fermentation in cement, then a year or two in small old oak vats, no new-oak polish anywhere. What you get is gutsy and wild and deeply savory, but refined at the same time. The unvarnished soul of Sangiovese.