Call it baby Barbaresco. Every grape in this Langhe Nebbiolo comes from Cantina del Pino’s Barbaresco vineyards, mostly the younger vines on the great Ovello hill, so you’re getting real Barbaresco pedigree at a fraction of the commitment. The difference is in the cellar: it sees only stainless steel, no oak, and a quick trip to bottle, which keeps everything bright, red-fruited and ready to drink tonight. It carries the perfume and spice of the estate’s grander wines in a fresher, more casual package. One of the great weeknight Nebbiolos out there.