Australian Pinot that drinks like Burgundy, and that’s no accident. Gary and Nick Farr trained at Domaine Dujac in Morey-Saint-Denis before returning to Geelong, and it shows in every glass. Irrewarra is their gateway bottling, from a cold, wind-battered site in Victoria’s Western District, and it’s the most affordable way into a cult lineup. Generous use of whole clusters and wild yeasts gives it a savory, stemmy, spice-and-earth backbone that keeps things interesting. Light on its feet but seriously built. Skeptics of New World Pinot, this one’s for you.