Austria doesn’t get enough credit for Chardonnay, and Bruendlmayer is the wine to change that. From one of the country’s great estates in the Kamptal, this single-vineyard Reserve comes off the Steinberg’s schist and loess, a site that gives cut and minerality rather than tropical fruit. Fermented and lees-aged in Burgundian oak barriques (about a third of them new), then racked into 2,500-liter oak casks, it lands somewhere between white Burgundy and something all its own: taut, layered, and built to reward a few years in bottle. If you love Meursault but want to go off the beaten path, start here.