Sarmassa is a powerhouse cru in the town of Barolo, and it gives Brezza’s most muscular wine. This historic family domaine works traditionally, and from Sarmassa’s sun-soaked, structured site they draw a Barolo with real density and grip. The 2016 vintage was one of Piedmont’s finest in recent memory, a cool, balanced year that produced classically proportioned wines built for the long haul. This is Nebbiolo for the cellar: give it time and it rewards you. A serious bottle from an under-the-radar estate.