L’Ardillon is a specific south-facing parcel within Brz, the storied limestone hilltop that defines great Saumur Chenin. It is also Brendan Stater-West’s most prestigious bottling: a 0.38-hectare plot of old vines planted in the 1950s on 80 cm of clay-loam over Turonian limestone, farmed organically, harvested whole-cluster, fermented with indigenous yeast, and aged 24 months on lees in barrel before another five months in tank. Stater-West (American expat, Guiberteau’s protege, heir to the Clos Rougeard tradition) makes very little of this. The result is a Chenin of remarkable tension and depth, the kind of bottle to lay down and forget. Imported by Becky Wasserman.