It tastes like a walk through an alpine forest, which given where it’s made is entirely the point. Sapin means fir, and Brasserie des Voirons brews this one with fir buds gathered in the mountains around Lucinges, high above Lake Geneva. The buds bring resin, citrus and a cool green note, something like gin’s pine-forward cousin, riding on a beer that’s been long-fermented and aged for months in old barrels. Dry, tangy, savory and weirdly refreshing, it makes complete sense with a plate of mountain cheese and a cold day. Organic, unfiltered, unpasteurized. Serve it cool, in a wine glass.