Elderflower is easy to get wrong one wrong turn and you’re drinking perfume. Voirons doesn’t get it wrong. The brewery sits in the alpine village of Lucinges, above Lake Geneva, working with foraged and local plants and building its flavored beers like dishes, with balance as the first principle. Elder flowers go into a long, slow-fermented beer that then spends months in old barrels, and the result is floral and lifted but bone dry, with a wild-yeast tang that cuts the blossom before it can turn sweet. Organic, unfiltered, unpasteurized. Serve it cool in a wine glass. It’s a killer aperitif, and a genuinely good thing to hand someone who insists they don’t like beer.