Coffee beer usually means a big black stout you could stand a spoon in. This is not that. Brasserie des Voirons works out of Lucinges in the Haute-Savoie, brewing with alpine spring water and aging most of what they make in old barrels for six to eighteen months. Their flavored beers are built like recipes rather than gimmicks balance first and the Coffee is exactly that: coffee folded in for aroma and bitter lift rather than dessert-course sweetness. It lands roasty and aromatic with a dry, savory edge and the gentle tang that long, slow fermentation gives everything here. Organic, unfiltered, unpasteurized. Serve it cool rather than cold, in a wine glass, and treat it like a lightly wild beer with an espresso in its pocket.