Yes, it says Chenin Blanc. No, it isn’t wine. Brasserie des Voirons brews in the Haute-Savoie hills above Lake Geneva, and their “vigneronne” series is the strangest and best thing they do: spontaneously fermented beer aged for months in old barrels on the grapes and lees of winemaker friends. Chenin turns up with its usual bag of tricks quince, orchard fruit, beeswax, a lick of honey but wrapped around a beer’s grain and body, with a wild-yeast tang and a long dry finish. It’s hazy, unfiltered, unpasteurized and moving in the glass. Serve it cool, give it air, and let it open over an hour. If you love Jura whites, saisons, or the strange country between them, you’re home.