This is a beer. Read that again, because the label says Aligot and the bottle looks every inch like wine. Brasserie des Voirons brews in Lucinges, an alpine village in the Haute-Savoie between Mont Blanc and Lake Geneva, using spring water from the same aquifer that feeds Evian. Their “vigneronnes” are the wild ones: spontaneously fermented beers aged for months in old barrels on the grape lees of winemaker friends. This one lives on Aligot lees, and it comes out genuinely between two worlds the grain and texture of beer, the grapey lift and saline-mineral cut of a lean white, plus the soft funk that wild yeast always brings. Organic, unfiltered, unpasteurized and thoroughly alive. Serve it cool in a wine glass and let people guess before you tell them.