Bedrock Wine Co. is Morgan Twain-Peterson’s life’s work, and old-vine Zinfandel is its beating heart. This Sonoma Valley bottling draws on the gnarled, head-trained, often century-old vines that Bedrock has fought to preserve, many of them field blends with a scattering of other old varieties mixed in. The result is Zinfandel with energy and lift rather than heat and sweetness, brambly and spicy and built around real freshness. This is what old-vine California is supposed to taste like.