Bedrock Wine Co. is Morgan Twain-Peterson’s project devoted to California’s historic old-vine vineyards, and he’s on a mission to spread the gospel of California Syrah. This bottling pulls from sites around the state for a wine that splits the difference between the savory, peppery Northern Rhone style and California’s natural generosity of fruit. It over-delivers wildly for the price and drinks beautifully young, though it has the structure to reward a few years in the cellar.