Some bottles feel like time capsules, and this is one of them: a 2012 grower Champagne, Brut Nature, in magnum. Loic Barrat and Aurelie Masson farm their vines organically in southern Champagne and vinify with a farmer’s precision, nothing added to sweeten or soften, just a clean, ringing expression of place. Magnum tells its own story, since Champagne ages more slowly and more gracefully in large format; pair that with the great 2012 harvest and you get a wine that is both vivid and unhurried. This is the bottle you open when the table is full and you want the conversation to set the pace.