From a single half-hectare plot in Montepulciano, Marco Barbi makes only about 3,000 bottles of this a year, genuinely scarce, hand-farmed Sangiovese. The name comes from local dialect for the tangle of vine roots that surface from the ground, which tells you how close to the earth this operation runs. It’s the young, fresh, declassified sibling to Vino Nobile: fermented with wild yeasts, aged mostly in seasoned wood, and built to drink now rather than wait. Medium-bodied and red-fruited with gentle tannins, it’s the kind of honest Tuscan red that never made it to the tourist shops.