Bobal is usually the anonymous muscle behind cheap Spanish reds, but at 923 meters in the mountains above Valencia it becomes something else entirely. Baldovar 923 takes its name from that altitude, where four partners restored a village cooperative that had sat shuttered for over a decade. They farm old bush vines organically and biodynamically on chalky limestone, chasing an acidity and freshness most people don’t associate with the region. This ‘Berandia’ bottling is 100% Bobal, fermented with native yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered in tiny quantities. Light on its feet, mineral, and proof that a workhorse grape can run.