This is Nebbiolo grown in the Alps, on terraces so steep that everything is done by hand. Ar.Pe.Pe. is Valtellina’s standard-bearer for tradition, and Rocca de Piro comes from old vines, some pushing a century, in the Grumello cru high above the valley floor at 350 to 500 meters. It sees a marathon maceration and long, patient aging in big neutral casks before release, all in service of finesse over force. Riserva Nebbiolo like this is lighter on its feet than Barolo but no less serious: perfumed, savory, and built to age. Fewer than 3,000 bottles are made.