Most California Sauvignon Blanc chases zippy, stainless-steel crispness. Jesse Katz went the other way. Inspired by white Bordeaux, where he spent time at Chateau Haut-Brion, Aperture’s version blends in 20% Semillon and finishes fermentation slowly in French oak and concrete, resting on the lees for texture. The other 80% is Sauvignon Blanc drawn from cool Sonoma sites, and the barrel is seasoning, not the main event. The payoff is a white with real weight and layers that still stays bright and mouthwatering.